To stabilize the structure, I will be adding framed ends in the future. Also, to hold the edges of the cattle panels together, use hog rings or fence wire. Just be sure that the loose ends face inward, so it does not puncture the plastic. Speaking of plastic, I use 6-mil CLEAR construction plastic bought from the local lumber yard.
More to come as I complete the project.
2009-08-05
Winter Veggie Gardening With Cattle Panel Hoop House V
Now lift and push up from the end of the cattle panel not butted up against the rebar, and make an arch. Set the end down inside the rebar on the edge of the beds, and voila! The hoop house begins to take shape. My beds are 16 feet long, so they required 4 cattle panels to be erected. There is two more inches of panel at each end, so it hangs off the edge of the boards. This will allow for a dead air space at the two ends when covered with plastic, to help retain warmth. It also allows for framing the ends without going outside of the hoops.
Winter Veggie Gardening With Cattle Panel Hoop House IV
I have marked the sides of the beds every 50", since the cattle panels are that wide. Set the first panel down so that it butts against the rebar on the edge of the bed. Notice that the "bars" on the cattle panel run length-wise on one side, and width-wise on the other. I use the lengthwise bars on top to prevent the welds from breaking due to less stress on the welds from bending them.
Winter Veggie Gardening With Cattle Panel Hoop House III
Now add mulch in the walkway between the beds. I am using materials delivered by the Asplundt folks after an ice storm. The mulch will help control weeds, keep your feet dry, and prevent the soil from leaking out from under the beds! I will eventually mulch around the entire frame to help insulate the soil from the cold, and again, to prevent the soil from leaking out.
Winter Veggie Gardening With Cattle Panel Hoop House I
First, construct the edges of your raised beds, just like you would do for a Summer Veggie Garden. The entire frame is eight feet wide, sixteen feet long, and the two beds will have a 36" internal width. The boards are 2" x 10" dimensional pine lumber. Note the rebar pounded in along each side. The rebar has two purposes. One, to hold the Cattle-Panel hoops onto the frame, and second, to keep the soil from bowing the edges out. I used 24" rebar pounded in to the ground leaving a few inches above the outside side boards and flush with the boards on the inside of the beds. Because I live south of the 40th Parallel, I oriented the beds north-to-south.
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